climbing shoe guide

Get vertical: Climbing shoe guide

How to find the right climbing shoes


What are the best shoes for climbing and bouldering, and how do I choose the right ones? Phew, we would like to give you an easy and quick answer to this question. But finding the right climbing shoes is not so simple. They have to fit snugly, but not hurt too much. The sole has to provide good traction on the rock or in the gym and the shoes have to be durable. It depends on the shape of your foot, the level at which you climb, what you need the shoe for and, of course, your personal preferences. There are so many styles to choose from that you need to know exactly what is important to you. We want to help you with that: Here is a little guide to buying climbing shoes.

 

 

basis: the shape of your foot


Many manufacturers now indicate on their climbing shoes which foot shapes they are suitable for. A Greek foot shape means that your second toe is bigger than your first toe. If you have an Egyptian shape, your toes slope down like a staircase, and if you have a Roman shape, all your toes are about the same length. Pay attention to this, it is often written in the description.

 

climbing shoe guide

 

 

The closure of your climbing shoes


There are three types of closure for climbing shoes: lacing, Velcro and slip-on. Each type of closure has its advantages and disadvantages, and ultimately it comes down to your preferences.

 

Lacing

The advantage of laces is that they can be adjusted to fit the whole foot. This means that the shoe fits tightly around the foot and provides very good support. The disadvantage of laced shoes is that they take a long time to put on and take off. If you know you are going to be wearing the shoe for a long time – for example, when projecting on sport climbing routes or climbing multi-pitch routes – a lace-up shoe may be a good choice.

 

Velcro

These shoes are easy to put on and take off. Velcro shoes are particularly popular for bouldering, as the shoes are constantly being put on and taken off.

 

Loafers

These shoes are only held in place by elastic, so they need to be tight to prevent them coming off over the heel when you use hooks. This type of climbing shoe is often used by boulderers or advanced climbers who wear very tight shoes.

 

climbing shoes guide

 

There are also shoes with other quick lace systems, such as La Sportiva’s Fast Lacing.

 

 

climbing shoes for beginners


Are you just starting out in climbing or bouldering, or have you only used rental shoes up to now? You’re mostly indoors, but maybe you want to get out on the rock soon? Finding your first pair of climbing shoes is always the hardest part. Here are some tips on what to look for:

 

The fit

If you are new to climbing, it is important that your shoes are comfortable and provide enough support for your first moves. To do this, they need to fit snugly. But no, you don’t have to go four sizes smaller for your first pair of climbing shoes. After all, you don’t want to spoil your climbing fun.
What you should bear in mind, however, is that climbing shoes tend to widen a little after a while – a little less with synthetic leather, up to half a size, and up to 1.5 sizes with leather. So it’s better to buy a bit smaller and wear them in well.

Conclusion: Your climbing shoes may be uncomfortable at first, but they should not be painful!

 

The shape of your climbing shoes

As a beginner, you don’t need shoes with a strong camber, just a little. What does this mean? It means that the heel of your climbing shoes can be relatively straight (no to light camber) and not extremely forward (strong camber).
You also don’t need shoes with a strong downturn. A strong downturn means that the forefoot is bent downwards and the toes are bent downwards. As a beginner, it is sufficient to buy rather “flat” climbing shoes to start with.
You should also buy a symmetrical to slightly asymmetrical climbing shoe, in which your toes have a little more room in front and are not bent inwards too much. Symmetrical shoes are more like street shoes in shape. This means that when you look at the shoe from above, it is slightly narrower at the front than at the back. Asymmetric shoes have more curved toes, which gives you more support for small edges – but you won’t need that until later.

 

The sole

In the beginning, the sole of your climbing shoes should not be too soft, because the softer the sole, the more force you have to use. It is better to choose a shoe with a slightly harder sole – also the rubber will not wear out as quickly.

 

 

 

Climbing shoes for advanced climbers


Do you regularly train in a climbing or bouldering gym, do you also enjoy climbing or bouldering outdoors and are you experienced in your favorite sport? Then you should invest in a good pair of climbing shoes. You may find that you need several pairs of climbing shoes if you like to change between the types of climbing.

 

climbing shoe guide

 

 

The fit

If you are going to try more challenging sport climbing routes, or if you are going to do more athletic bouldering, it is important that your climbing shoes are really snug and secure. Nothing would be worse than your feet not being able to grip properly in the shoes.
If you like alpine multi-pitch climbing, your shoes should be comfortable. You will probably wear them for a long time and only take them off occasionally.

 

The shape of your climbing shoes

You can choose shoes that have a medium to high camber, where the heel pulls forward. This takes the pressure off your foot in steep or moderately overhanging terrain.
With a downturn, you get more tension on the toes and can apply more pressure. This can help you step on small edges and “grab” small steps with your foot, pulling you towards the rock. Don’t overdo it though, as the more arched your shoes are, the more uncomfortable they will be.
Your climbing shoes can also be more asymmetrical, which will also help you with stepping on small edges.

 

The sole

This depends a little on your preferences – do you like to crawl up the slabs in Fontainebleau or Ticino and need good friction and soft soles? Or do you like to climb in steeper terrain or do you prefer athletic bouldering? Then you need a harder sole. Do you like both? Then you should consider buying two pairs of climbing shoes so that you can choose the right pair for the type of climbing you do.

 

 

 

Climbing shoes for experts


Do you love tiny little edges, nasty slabs and horizontal roofs? Do you climb the most difficult routes in the gym and on the rock and love to hang on the training board? Then you can call yourself an expert! You probably already know what kind of climbing shoes you need and want, but maybe we can help you a little.

 

climbing shoe guide

 

 

The fit

No surprise: your climbing shoes need to fit snugly, maybe even a few sizes smaller than your street shoe size. Just remember that synthetic materials stretch less than leather.

 

The shape of your climbing shoes

If you want, you can invest in asymmetrical climbing shoes with a strong camber and a strong downturn. Of course, like Alexander Huber, you can also simply pull your demanding routes in the La Sportiva Mythos. Anyone who can.

If you do a lot of hooks, you need a stable heel and a corresponding hook zone, and if you do a lot of toe hooks, the shoe should have a downturn that is not too violent.
But what are we telling you, you are the expert!

 

The sole

The harder the sole, the more it supports your foot muscles. Since you already have well-developed foot muscles, you can choose softer soles. Again, it depends on the type of climbing you are doing.

 

 

 

Different CLIMBING SHOES for bouldering?


For bouldering, the same applies as for shoes for advanced or expert climbers: If you’re not a slab climber, you need a reasonably aggressive shoe. This means strong camber, downturn and some asymmetry. As you will be putting your shoes on and off all the time, Velcro or loafers are very practical.

 

climbing shoe guide

 

 

 

MATERIAL OF CLIMBING SHOES


Climbing shoes are usually made of leather or synthetic materials, some of which are vegan. Some climbing shoes are lined, but the lining is there to absorb sweat rather than provide wamrth. Almost all climbing shoes have pull loops. They are attached to the heel, making them easier to put on, and you can attach them to your harness with a carabiner.

 

Leather climbing shoes

Advantages: softer, fits your foot better, less odour
Disadvantage: can stretch a lot

Synthetic leather climbing shoes

Advantages: more stable, slightly firmer, dries faster
Disadvantage: smell more quickly and intensely

 

 

CARE AND RESoLING OF CLIMBING SHOES


After climbing, you should always let your shoes dry well. Do not dry your shoes on a radiator or on a heater as this can change their shape.

 

What can I do to stop my climbing shoes from smelling?

Let’s be honest: climbing shoes can smell really bad. A few simple things can help:

 

1. Always air your boots well, stuffing them with newspaper if necessary.
2. Wear thin (climbing) socks.
3. Attach your climbing shoes to the outside of your backpack. 
4. Put your boots in the freezer overnight. This kills bacteria. But let them defrost slowly, otherwise the soles will become brittle.
5. Put a chalk ball in the shoe and shake it. Chalk absorbs moisture.

 

How do I keep the sole grippy for a long time?

To keep the sole from losing its grip, it should be cleaned regularly. Simply rub the sole with a brush or cloth to remove dirt.
You should also avoid exposing your shoes to extreme heat, such as direct sunlight, as this can cause the sole to become brittle and the glue to dissolve.

 

Replace the soles of climbing shoes: When the sole is done

Your climbing shoes take a lot wear and tear, and eventually you will notice that they no longer climb as well as they used to. Sometimes there is even a small hole. You don’t have to throw your climbing shoes away. But it is time for a new sole. It is better (and cheaper) to have your shoes repaired as long as the edge has ‘only’ come off and there is no hole. In any case, a repair/re-sole is always cheaper than a new pair of shoes. The downside is that the shoe may feel a little stiffer and tighter at first. However, you can usually keep going with the new rubber.

 

La Sportiva, for example, offers this service directly, but many smaller suppliers also specialise in this.

 

 

 

 

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