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At the latest when you feel that you have to push down the slope instead of whizzing down, it’s time: Your skis need fresh wax. You don’t have to go to a ski service, you can do it yourself – really – easily and comfortably at home. Here we give you some advice on when it’s time for new wax and how to care for your skis.
When does a ski need to be waxed?
At the very latest, your skis should be waxed when you no longer glide through the snow as usual, but are rather slowed down. However, it is better to take care of a new wax layer before that.
For one thing, you can see and feel when it’s time for new ski wax: if the base looks dull and gray and feels rough, that’s an unmistakable sign.
It’s even better though, to keep your skis topped up with fresh wax whenever the temperature, and therefore the snow conditions, change significantly. This is because temperature fluctuations have a direct influence on the consistency of the wax and lead to increased wear.
Waxing is also recommended when there is an abrupt change between wet snow and powder snow.
Otherwise, we advise you to wax your skis before you store them over the summer: this way, you protect them optimally against rust.
Which wax is suitable?
Whether you’re skiing cross-country, on pistes or in deep snow, all skis need fresh wax now and then.
In the end, it comes down to two important points: Hot wax or cold wax? And high fluorine or low fluorine?
Hot wax comes in block or stick form and only becomes liquid through contact with heat, in this case with an iron. It thus penetrates deep into the pores and is more durable than the cold variety, but takes longer to apply and is a bit more work.
Cold wax is already available in liquid form and is perfect for a quick treatment. However, the wax does not go as deep and tends to stay on the surface. The abrasion resistance is correspondingly lower than with hot wax.
A high-fluor wax causes the ski to glide better in damp, heavy snow because the moisture beads off. Wax containing fluorine is standard in racing, but the preparation is also somewhat more complex.
A low-fluor wax is always a good choice if you ski in dry powder snow. But also for piste and cross-country skiing a wax with low fluorine can be a good compromise.
Note: Please only use wax that is clearly intended for ski care.
WHICH WAX FOR WHICH SKI?
Which wax you use and when is not only dependent on temperatures or snow, but it also depends on which skis you’re on. Here we briefly explain the specifics of cross-country, alpine and touring/freeride skis.
Wax for alpine skis
If your alpine skis are well waxed, skiing becomes a real pleasure. You also need less power for the turns. In addition, the skis are better protected thanks to the wax and thus last longer.
Alpine skis can be treated with cold or hot wax.
Wax for freeride and touring skis
Here, too, you can choose between hot and cold wax. The difference to alpine skis, however, is that it is best to use flour-free universal waxes, so-called hydrocarbon waxes. Their temperature range is much wider and they have a high abrasion resistance.
If you need to di q quick waxing, you can also use a high-quality cold wax. As a rule, touring skis do not need to be waxed quite as often as cross-country or alpine skis.
Wax for cross-country skis
Cross-country skiing is only fun when your skis glide smoothly over the trail. That’s why you should renew the wax on cross-country skis regularly. Note: Cross-country skiing has a few special features and uses different types of wax than alpine skiing.
Many cross-country skis are also equipped with two different surfaces: a climbing zone and a gliding zone. For the climbing zone, it is best to use an adhesive wax. This adheres well to the snow and ensures optimum power transmission when pushing off. The gliding zone, on the other hand, should be treated with the usual hot or cold wax.
Cross-country skiers often carry a grip wax for fresh snow and powder, and a klister wax for wet, icy or old snow.
WHAT ELSE DO YOU NEED FOR SKI WAXING?
Basically, you can’t go wrong if you buy a waxing kit – everything you need is already included and you can be sure that the wax is of good quality.
Here’s a list of what you absolutely need:
- Wax (a good compromise is universal wax)
- Nylon or copper brush
- Iron or even better a wax iron (here there is no danger that the iron gets too hot and the wax smokes)
- Plastic or Plexiglas scraper blade
- A soft cloth made of cotton or microfiber
Supplementary, but not mandatory, things:
- Sandpaper and tape for preliminary cleaning
- Carpet knife for the removal of smaller wax residues
- Clamping device for fixing the skis
- Touch-up pen (graphite or transparent), with which you can touch up the roughest scratches in advance, if necessary
- Metal file
ADDITIONAL TIPS & TRICKS
If you use a normal iron for waxing, you have to be very careful with the temperature! It’s best to set the iron for wool/silk. You probably won’t be able to use the iron for your laundry afterwards, as there will always be some wax left behind.
When stripping with the blade and brushing out, always work in the direction of travel, away from the tip of the ski!
And now let’s get started:
Step by step: SKI WAXING WITH HOT WAX
If you follow these steps and work carefully, it’s really not that hard to wax your own skis.
It’s best to bring your skis into the warm room the night before waxing so they’re at room temperature the next day.
- Fix the skis so that the base is on top and they don’t slip off.
- Set the iron to the right temperature and preheat it.
- Dry and clean the underside of the skis with a microfiber cloth.
- Then remove coarse impurities with the brush. Also thoroughly clean cracks and pores. If necessary, you can also use sandpaper and tape to remove any remaining dust and dirt.
- If you want to repair any rough edges first, take the pencil and heat it with a lighter or iron. Then drip the pen wax directly into the area on the ski to be repaired. Then use a metal file (file towards the edge) and the scraper to remove the excess material.
- Hold the hot wax to the iron so that it softens and runs down along the iron.
- Now you can move the iron back and forth over the ski so that the wax drips evenly onto the base. Caution: Do not drip too much wax onto the ski.
Note, alternative: You can also rub the hot wax evenly onto the base and then run the iron over it, this uses less wax. - Then slowly spread the wax on the ski with the hot iron – always away from the tip. Do not leave the iron on one spot for too long. Move the iron slowly over the base in a circular motion.
- Let the first layer of wax dry, this will take about an hour.
- Then smooth the first wax layer. To do this, use a plastic scraper and smooth it evenly over the surface with gentle pressure. Repeat this process about four or five times.
- Repeat the waxing step at least one more time. You can also apply four to five coats.
- Now the wax layers must dry – preferably for four hours.
- Now it’s time to remove the wax: Start with the edges (if you applied any here) and then pull the blade with pressure from front to back over the ski, so that the hardened wax is removed. You’ll need to do this repeatedly until all wax is removed.
- Last but not least: Brush the base vigorously one last time and wipe off any residue with the cloth. Nothing should stick to the surface!
Pro-tip: If you want it to be perfect, polish the gliding surfaces with a horsehair or nylon brush. This will make your base even smoother.