MTB buyer's guide

The great mountain bike buying guide

Whether you’re about to embark on your first mountain bike tour or you’ve already owned a few bikes and are looking for your next upgrade, this MTB guide will help you with the general decision-making process and give you an idea of the different types of suspension travel, geometries and uses. If you are already well versed in the subject, some sections may not be as relevant. Use the table of contents to jump straight to the content that interests you.

 

This article is a guide for classic mountain bikes. If you are looking for an e-bike, it is best to use our e-bike advisor.

 

MTB Kaufen Berater

 

Contents


Scratch the surface

 

Let’s get into the details:

Summary: the agony of choice

 

Mountain bikes: scratching the surface


The term “mountain bike” has accompanied cycling as a whole since the introduction and breakthrough of off-road two-wheelers in the 1980s. Back then, it was a lifestyle synonym that defined a whole generation of bored surfers and then tried to reconcile all disciplines at the same time.

 

But is it still possible today? From cross-country to trail and all-mountain to enduro and downhill – does mountain biking still say anything about the potential of bikes? No, we’re sure it doesn’t!

 

 

Fullys & Hardtails?


Honestly, both terms are as meaningful as “mountain bike”. The often-used term “fully” refers to full suspension bikes, i.e. bikes where the front and rear wheels are each connected to the main frame by a suspension and shock system through a movable rear end.

 

On hardtails, only the front wheel is suspended. The rear triangle and axle are fixed to the frame. Whether you call it a fully or a hardtail, both terms only describe the frame construction and say little about the riding characteristics. The discussion about advantages and disadvantages is only relevant for cross-country riding.

 

Let’s look at each and how they differ:

 

Fullsuspension frame Hardtail frame
• Optimized traction • Direct propulsion and power transfer
• Smooth ride • Reduced wieght (due to construction)
• Forgiving • Less maintainance

 

MTB Kaufen Berater

 

Tell us what you like to ride and we’ll show you your bike!


 

Cross Country:

Whether it’s long climbs, multi-day tours or a quick trip to the mountain pasture for breakfast. You love relaxed rides and want to make the climb as comfortable and easy as possible. Your bike should be light and minimalist, but you also like to ride trails from time to time? Then a cross-country mountain bike is for you!

100 to 120 millimetres of suspension travel, with the option of full suspension, give you low weight, full propulsion and a seating position that allows you to pedal like a sportsman. The head tube angle allows for agile steering with a smooth feel.

 

 

Trail and all-mountain bikes:

Do you like easy and technical trails, riding a clean line with a bit of speed when things get too rough? Are you looking for a compromise between good uphill and downhill performance? Then go for a trail or an all-mountain bike.

120 to 150 millimetres of travel combine the best of cross-country and enduro. Moderate seat tube angles allow a central riding position even on steep climbs. A slightly flatter steering angle improves smoothness and rollover on technical trails.

 

 

 

Enduro:

Downhill performance is important to you, but you also want to be able to pedal well? Your line choice tends towards the steepest parts, you bounce here and there and your travel is probably often at the limit? Do you also feel at home on downhill trails and like to go full throttle over long fields of stones and roots? Then grab an Enduro bike!

With suspension travel starting at 150 millimetres, a flat steering angle and a compromise between wheelbase and chainstay length, the Enduro bike offers maximum mileage on fast and hard trails. The long travel ensures control and safety even when riding rough terrain.

 

MTB Kaufen Berater

 

 

Let’s get into the detailS


The frame: The choice of materials


Aluminium or carbon and glass fibre? You now know the general direction of your new bike, whether you are a cross-country or enduro rider. Now it is time to look at the details. When it comes to materials, opinions are divided and there is a lot of misinformation out there. You often read that carbon is prone to cracking and that aluminium is simply a bit heavier. But this is not a general rule. To understand the properties of these materials, we need to take a closer look at them (blog: carbon or salt).

 

Aluminium frames are made up of differently shaped tubes. If they are not round, they are hydroformed. This changes the cross-section and gives the frame specific properties and shapes in areas such as the chainstays, seatstays and down tube. With carbon, these properties can also be achieved by changing the cross-section, but the thickness of the material can also be determined by layering the individual mats in the mould. This gives a little more flexibility in certain areas, such as the seat stays on hardtails. On the other hand, more layers and a larger cross section are used in areas relevant to direct drive, such as the bottom bracket.

 

Because carbon fibres can only be stressed in tension along their fibre direction, they are laid crosswise and then cured in the mould together with resins. And glass fibres? It works the same way with FRP. You’ve probably noticed this in one or two of the manufacturers’ frames. Carbon frames also vary in weight and name. Depending on the quality, carbon fibre can be very expensive, which is why cheap fibreglass parts are sometimes used. With up to 2000 parts needed to laminate a carbon frame, the cost of materials is high. And why is carbon so susceptible to crashes? Don’t worry, it used to be! In the early days of the first carbon frames and series, crashes caused serious damage to the material. However, as manufacturing processes and material compositions have evolved and improved, modern carbon frames are strong enough to withstand simple crashes.

 

So carbon or aluminium? Of course, this is also a question of budget. However, carbon has the advantage over aluminium in that it is much stiffer for the same weight and also reduces vibration. There are also no welds, which are a potential weak point and detract from the appearance of the mould.

 

MTB Kaufen Berater

 

 

Suspension: What are the differences between forks and shocks?


The suspension, more specifically the fork or shock, takes a lot of the work out of any discipline. Correctly adjusted and tuned, they prevent the bike from throwing you off at the first root field.

 

But what should you look for when choosing suspension? If the climbing characteristics of full-suspension bikes are important to you, make sure that at least the rear shock is lockable. A lever is used to throttle the oil flow, effectively blocking the shock and transferring your pedalling power more directly to the drivetrain. Especially when you get out of the saddle, a damping block will help you save some energy. The same goes for the suspension fork. Most hardtails come with a lockout system.

 

Steel or air? This is a particularly important question in the Enduro sector. Steel shocks offer a linear spring characteristic. In practice this results in a very smooth and harmonious ride and damping behaviour, especially with fast successive shocks. Air shocks, on the other hand, offer a progressive spring characteristic due to the compression in the air chamber. This prevents bottoming on hard landings, but can lead to nervousness at the lower end of the travel.

 

We go into more detail on the suspension technology blog (MTB suspension). Here you will learn how to properly tune and test your bike, what you can do yourself and when a service is necessary.

 

MTB Kaufen Berater

 

 

Drivetrain: 1-by is the new standard


Why do most mountain bikes have just one chainring on the crank? Because it makes so many things easier! Who remembers black, greasy, dirty fingers because the chain got stuck somewhere between crank and frame and had to be fumbled out? Larger cassettes and rear derailleur cages provide the same transmission range as triple drivetrains. This means that there is no need to compromise, especially uphill. Even on the flat, the gear ratios are perfectly adequate.

 

The different thicknesses and thin teeth of the chainrings allow the chain to be guided optimally on the inner and outer plates. This makes chain guides almost superfluous, even on enduro bikes. Shifting is also easier, with just one lever on the right-hand side of the handlebar.

 

 

Brakes: Who brakes later, stays faster!


Which brake should it be? The bigger the better? All mountain bikes are equipped with robust brakes that are guaranteed to bring you to a halt. But what are the differences in the sometimes huge price differences and how does this translate into braking performance?

 

There are big differences in materials, especially for parts like brake discs. Lower priced discs are made from one piece. These discs are made entirely of stainless steel. Brake discs in the slightly higher price range are made of two pieces. The braking surfaces are also made of stainless steel, but the core is made of aluminium, which reduces weight. At the same time, aluminium offers better heat capacity and dissipation. The discs do not overheat, even on long descents, which in turn reduces thermal expansion in the calipers and prevents fading, i.e. loss of braking power.

 

 

Frame size: how to find the right one


Finding the right frame size is essential for you to feel comfortable on your bike, to get the most power out of the pedals and handlebars, and perhaps to make adjustments by lengthening or shortening the stem. The difficulty is that the trend towards smaller or larger frames varies greatly and depends on the area of use.

 

The size charts here give a good idea of the size ranges. Size M frames, depending on the manufacturer and model, are approximately suitable for a body height between 165 and 175 cm. If you are exactly on the edge of the size range, things get a little more complicated. For cross-country riding, the smaller frame is the better choice, and for downhill riding you can go a little bigger. If you have longer than average legs or arms, it’s a good idea to take a look at the larger frames. As mentioned above, the contact points can also be adjusted. Stems come in different lengths and angles, and the saddle can be moved on the seat post to adjust the riding position.

 

MTB Kaufen Berater

 

 

The agony of choice?


To sum up, whichever mountain bike you choose, you can change its configuration even after you have bought it. The general direction of use should be right, as should the choice of frame size.

 

So what are you waiting for? Get your bike!

 

ACCESSORIES & CLOTHING


Looking for the right accessories for your MTB? We have a wide range of tubes, saddles, pedals and everything else you need for your bike. You can also find MTB clothing in our shop. Here are some highlights for men and women:

 

 

 

Are you interested in other related articles about mountain biking? We have some more for you:

→ Bike Protectors: How do they work

→ Mountain Bike Tours in the Bavarian Alps

→ Biking helmets and glasses – what is there to know?