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Touring report written by Robert Werner; Flow Valley
A ski splitboard tour on the Tyrolean Fjord is a highlight in every respect. In terms of scenery, the tour strongly reminds you of the Lofoten Islands in Norway. The fjord, similar to the Achensee, is encircled between the limestone flanks of the Rofan in the east and the Karwendel in the west. The Seekarspitze looms like a pyramid over the northern end of the Achensee. Only on a few days in winter do you catch this racy ski tour in perfect conditions. On the one hand, the snow depth must be right for the steep east-side ascent, so that the mountain pines largely disappear under the snow cover, and on the other hand, the avalanche situation should also allow for the demanding ascent with numerous hairpin bends.
In mid-January last winter, it was another one of those days. Vale Rapp and I took advantage of the sunny January day to climb the 2053-high Seekarspitze peak. From my home in Lenggries, Upper Bavaria, I can reach Achenkirch in about half an hour, so the Achensee area is one of my favourite local splitboard tours. Apart from the fact that there are some worthwhile ski tours in a small area, our Tyrolean neighbours usually get a few centimetres more powder in the north.
We start our tour at the car park in Achenkirch near the north shore of Lake Achensee and follow the signs to Kogel Alm. On the ascending forest road we head towards the Kogel Alm. So that it doesn’t get too boring, you can shorten the wide hairpin bends over sparse forest slopes. Behind the Kogel Alm at an altitude of 1290 metres, you now climb up through a sparse forest to a wooden hut. Today we find the sparse forest completely untracked with a powdery 20cm high layer of fresh snow. We are already looking forward to the treeruns on the descent.After passing the wooden hut, we first have to master the difficult ascent part of the route. Now we reach the 35 degree steep free meadow and mountain pine slope. Today the ascent track has good grip and we don’t need crampons. Nevertheless, I recommend that even advanced ski mountaineers carry crampons in their rucksacks for this tour in order to master the inferno of hairpin bends without wasting energy in less than ideal ascent conditions.
A solid switchback technique is an absolute prerequisite before reaching the east ridge. If you are now planning to descend in an easterly direction, it makes sense to make a ski depot here, because now you have to scramble on foot over the east ridge to the summit. Surefootedness and a head for heights are advantageous here. The summit ridge is usually heavily overgrown and you should approach the traverse to the summit cross at a respectful distance from the cornice. The view at the highest point of our tour is simply breathtakingly beautiful. At our feet lies the deep blue Achensee. For a moment you forget that you are in North Tyrol and not somewhere far away in the Lofoten Islands. The distant view stretches from the Großvenediger to the Benedikten Wand. The Rofan Mountains on the opposite side, covered in deep snow, also greet you with perfect ski touring conditions.
For the time being, we decide to descend eastwards along the ascent track. The slopes were too tempting on the ascent. With wide turns, we make our tracks in the perfect wind-pressed powder on the eastern flank. You get the feeling that you’re flying straight into the bottom of the Achsensee. The treerun in the lower part is also really fun. The snow cover is sufficient to find your dream line in slalom style through the trees. When we reach the forest road, we decide to swell up again and climb to the summit once more. This time we want to tackle the even steeper (approx. 40 degrees) northern flank up to the Seekar Alm. This variant requires absolutely safe conditions and, because of the danger of slipping and falling, a solid skiing and snowboarding technique.
The entrance to the north slope is almost never perfect and often stony. Also today the wind was raging up here and it blew off. With a lot of sensitivity we feel our way into the steep slope as if on raw eggs. After a few metres down, the scenario changes and there is dust with every turn without contact with the enemy. Fluffy dry powder with no wind brings a big grin to our faces. The second ascent was more than worth it. Shortly before the Seekar Alm, there are smaller drops and pillows to play with before returning to the ascent track on the forest road.
After around 1800 metres in altitude and two epic descents, we arrive stoked back at the car park. For me, one of the most scenic splitboard tours with a unique ambience in my local area. Also great for snowboarders as there are no flat sections or counter ascents. A must for advanced ski mountaineers and splitboarders, both on the ascent and the descent.
Seekarspitze: Why is this tour a “Ski Local” tour for me?
The tour is only half an hour away from my home in Lenggries
Exposure: Northeast and East
Tour data: Altitude difference: 1100 metres, Distance: 5 km (ascent).
Both descents (north and east) involve 1800 metres of altitude difference
Ascent time: 4 hours, for both descents 6.5 hours
Best season:
January to early April
Equipment: Normal ski touring and splitboard equipment. Be sure to bring crampons.